This set of forums is an archive of our old CGI-Based forum platform (UBB.Classic) that was never imported to our current forum (UBB.threads); as such, no new postings or registrations are allowed here.

Please instead direct all questions and postings to the our current forum here.
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#24623 June 13th, 2004 at 12:41 AM
Joined: Jun 2004
B
Junior Member
OP Offline
Junior Member
B
Joined: Jun 2004
I wwould like to know why my tomatoe leaves are turing yellow. Somebody please tell me. I would like to send a photo but I dont know how,tell me how and I will.
Buck522W@aol.com

#24624 June 20th, 2004 at 03:17 PM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Hi Buck, been busy, sent you an email!

#24625 June 21st, 2004 at 03:53 PM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Buck...Email, not working??? Duh

#24626 June 25th, 2004 at 08:47 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
G
Junior Member
Offline
Junior Member
G
Joined: Jun 2004
Although long-distance diagnosis of such a problem
is tricky at best. I will give you several reasons
yellowing of the tomato leaves occurs.

One reason could be Nutrient deficiency.Spray young
plants with a folar application of seaweed extract
(eary morning) and add compost to the soil.Have the
soil tested and amend as neccessary.

If young leaves are yellow with green veins,suspect
iron deficiency.Reduce soil pH to help make iron
more available.If dark spots develop in the yellow
areas,and leaves are small and narrow,the problem
may be zinc deficiency.

If young leaves are pale and tips die, the problem
is calcium deficiency. Add high-calcium lime,dolomite
lime if magnesium is also low,wood ashes,or gypsum
to the soil.

plants that are stunted and have yellow or pale
older leaves may have a nitrogen deficiency.

Young leaves that are mottled with yellow and are
narrow and twisted could be tobacco mosaic virus
(TMV) Destroy diseased plants.Wash your hands after
handling tobacco and before touching tomato plants.

Older leaves yellow;shoots or whole plant wilts
the cause may be Walnut,Fusarium,or Verticillium
wilt.Walnut wilt occurs in soil containing black
walnut roots,which secrete a substance tht is toxic
to many plants.Tomatoes within 50' of black walnut
will wilt and suddenly die.

Fusarium and Verticillium wilt are both fungal dieases
and are difficult to tell apart.Both wilts begin as a
yellowing and wilt of the lower leaves.plants are
stunted and do not recover when watered.

Cut open a stem near the soil line and look for
discoloration.Verticillium wilt usally affects
the whole plant while Fusarium may affect individual
shoots before the whole plant is affected.
Destory infected plants.

You can prevent wilt problems by soaking seeds in
a 10% bleach and 90% water solution.

Leaves are yellow and plant wilts in hot weather.
the cause may be Root Knot Nematodes.Check roots for
swollen sections or galls up to 1" in dameter.
Destory infected plant and do not add to compost.
Apply Chitin(Shells of lobsters,crabs,shrimp,and
other shellfish). add to the soil it stimulates
growth of beneficial microorganisms. These microorganisms
produce the enzyme Chitinase, which destroys nematode
eggs and larvae.


I hope this helps.

#24627 June 28th, 2004 at 12:50 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
B
Member
Offline
Member
B
Joined: Jun 2003
Walnut trees! I tried going around the corner of the house to utilize some more space for tomato plants. They got to be about 2' high before they suddenly wilted and are dying fast. Extra water does nothing but their appearance is similar to bad drought symptoms. I have walnut tree about 40' away on the edge of the woods. Evidently, the roots have reached that area but have not been able to go around the house due to the sidewalk and steps. Thank goodness for that. I have some peppers over there too and they are showing effects including mottled leaves and yellowing.

When I first bought this place years ago, I had a great garden near the woods until about this same time. Then, within 2 weeks, all the tomato plants and peppers began to wilt and then died. It was something I had to learn the hard way and something that my gardener grandfather and uncle never told me. Of course, they never had a garden near walnut trees. smile

#24628 June 28th, 2004 at 03:47 PM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
This also includes...Roots in the ground left from where a walnut ONCE stood, walnut leaves and walnut wood shavings/sawdust...so...watch Your Mulch too! grinnnn

#24629 June 29th, 2004 at 07:13 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Member
Offline
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Yes, I too have learned all this the hard way, my question for anyone is this. How long does it take "after" the removal of the Walnut tree for the soil and surrounding area to return to somewhat normal? 100 years? 2years?

#24630 July 3rd, 2004 at 02:43 PM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
I haven't been able to find any info on how long, I know in one instance that the tree itself had been gone for 10 years! frown

#24631 July 4th, 2004 at 09:12 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Member
Offline
Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Ours has been gone maybe about 6 years and I am slowly beginning to see some improvement.But I would imagine that it would take years to rid those nasty toxins eek eek Stupid trees!!

#24632 July 4th, 2004 at 03:50 PM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A
Hey Neighbor...Don't go usin' the trees as an excuse now...come the TOMATO TASTIN' Jamboree!!! by the way...Have you been working on those plans? grinnnn grinnnn


Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.3.33 Page Time: 0.019s Queries: 33 (0.011s) Memory: 0.7610 MB (Peak: 0.8408 MB) Data Comp: Zlib Server Time: 2024-05-05 04:32:27 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS