A Gardeners Forum
Posted By: Merme Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 02:54 AM
Hi everyone ~ wavey

I thought I'd start a new thread for us on the topic of crocheting. This first post is just a copy of the one I did in the Baby Blanket thread explaining about types of crochet Hooks.

Perhaps Mary Reboakly will also copy her post about crochet pattern abbreviations here as well so we can have everything in one place.

I'm hoping a thread like this will be helpful so everyone can jump in with questions, comments or further clarifications as we go along. Don't be shy!

A general word about HOOKS for crochet....

ALUMINUM HOOKS are labeled with a letter and a milimeter indication. As in Lynne's hook, she wrote that it is an H/5 mm hook.

With aluminum hooks, the HIGHER the letter, the LARGER the hook. So an H or a J are much bigger hooks than a C or an E. The larger the hook, the heavier the yarn you can use it with. And the bulkier the piece will be. A big hook with a more medium weight yarn will give a loosely woven or loopy appearance.

Aluminum hooks are the ones you most commonly see used for garments, blankets, and decorative projects.


STEEL HOOKS are numbered. With steel hooks the HIGHER the number, the SMALLER the hook.

So a Steel Hook 7/1.5mm is LARGER than a Steel Hook 9/1.25mm

Steel hooks are the type used for doilies, lacy work, collars and cuffs, fancy edgings, etc.

Utilizing thread, rather than yarn, these hooks makes very delicate work indeed.

The threads for steel hook come in an assortment of thicknesses. A 10 thread is heavier than a 20 and a 20 is heavier than a 50. The finer the thread, the smaller your hook should be, generally speaking.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 03:04 AM
Hi again ~ wavey

Let's have a brief word about the language of crochet so that we all know we are talking about the same thing.

For instance...

The vertical part of any stitch is called a "POST".

The horizontal part on top is called a "LOOP".

If you look at a crocheted stitch, you will notice the LOOP has two sides. The one nearest you is called the "FRONT LOOP". The one furthest from you is called the "BACK LOOP". And yes, it really makes a difference which one you use or if you use both simultaneously.

If you have a crocheted piece where there is some distance between stitches, as in a Granny Square, for instance, or a lacy piece, the area between the stitches is called a "SPACE". (There really shouldn't be any "holes" in your work! laugh )

When working a flat piece of any kind whether or not you are going back and forth from end to end or cutting the yarn and starting again at the beginning, the line of stitches you put in are called a "ROW".

When working something in a circle, the line of stitches are called a "ROUND".

The tool used for crochet is called a "HOOK". Notice it has a notched end. (The tool for knitting is called a "NEEDLE"; it has a smooth, pointed end.)

When you wrap the yarn or thread around the end of the hook before or after inserting it into a loop, that wrapping is called "YARN OVER" and is abbreviated y/o.


Make sense?

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 03:22 AM
Hi again ~ wavey

About reading patterns....

If you are not already, try to get familiar with the list of abbreviations Mary Reboakly posted in the other thread. That's a good first step to understanding pattern instructions.

Next are the little oddities modern pattern writers use to save time and space so they don't have to write out every single stitch you must do.

Some stitch sequences that you must repeat are put into parenthesis, thus: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) and then the number of times you must repeat that sequence is written after, thus: (2 dc,ch 1,2 dc)2 times.

If the instructions were to write each stitch separately for you, it would be really hard to follow the total pattern and not to mention how long each pattern would be printed out! Using the example I gave above, without the parenthesis, it would have to be: 2 dc,ch 1,2 dc,2 dc,ch 1,2 dc, 2 dc,ch 1, 2 dc.

Hard to follow that, isn't it!

Another way instructions will indicate repeats is with the use of * and **

Reading along in a pattern, you might see something like this:

Ch 2, 3 dc, (ch 2, 3 dc, sc) 4 times; *ch 2, 6 dc, ch 3, 5 dc** repeat from * to ** all the way across to end of row.

So you would first do the Ch 2, 3 dc, followed by the four repeats of Ch 2, 3 dc, sc. Next you would keep repeating ch 2, 6 dc, ch 3, 5 dc until you got to the end.

And by the way, where you are in the repeat when you reach the end should match where the instructions say you should be!

Sometimes it will give the repeat for * to ** and then say "continue until last five stitches from end, then... And will give the final sequence for the row or round.

Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 03:23 AM
Love all that stuff. I am taking notes! I dont know the names of anything and this is great for me!
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 03:31 AM
Hi ~ wavey

Here is a simple variation of the Granny Square some of you might like to try. It has 6 sides instead of 4 and is made in only two rounds.

It's finished size is approximately 3 inches across when worked with worsted weight yarn and a G Hook.

By the way, a single Granny Square all by itself is usually called a "MOTIF".

Motifs can be connected together in almost limitless ways to shape many projects. They can also be adjusted for size by varying the yarn weight and the hook size as well as the number of rounds added.

So here's the pattern to try:

Ch 6, join with sl st in the fist chain to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3,(counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring, (ch 3, 3 dc in ring) 5 times, ch 3, sl st in top of beginning ch 3 at start of round.
Rnd 2: st st in each of the next 2 dc, sl st in ch 3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc) (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same ch 3 sp *ch 2, skip next 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch 3 sp**, repeat between * and ** 4 more times, then ch 2, skip next 3 dc, sl st in beginning ch 3 of round. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 03:40 AM
I once did a 6 sided afghan for my grandmother. Thanks for the reminder, I think my new baby blanket is going to be a 6 sided one. I was planning on starting it today.
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 8th, 2005 at 11:07 PM
Hi everyone ~ wavey

This post is about "Storing Your Hooks".

Hooks are sold either individually or in small sets. The individual hook packaging is just a flat piece of cardboard with a hard plastic cover glued onto it.

The hooks sold in sets have an upgraded package that has small grooves for the hooks to rest within. These are rather tight-fitting and many people find it difficult to get the hooks in and out of them.

There are limitless other options for handy hook storage, and storing the hooks IS important. It can be terribly frustrating to KNOW you have an H hook someplace, can't find it, need to do a project, go get another H hook THEN find your original one! So what do ya do with two H's when you know you were hoping to buy a J later?

Not to mention the importance of preventing your hooks from getting scratched, bent, or otherwise misused and injured.

For those of you who also sew a little, and even for those of you who do not, an easy hook storage system is a roll-up pocket sleeve.

If you are not much of a seamstress, don't worry, this is truly easy to do.

All you need are two pieces of a medium weight fabric the same size. Make 2 rectangles slightly taller than the length of the hooks.

The idea is to put the fabric together in such a way as to make slim pockets to slide the hooks into, by running a line of stitches vertically between where each hook would go. Be sure to leave enough space between the lines of stitching so that the pocket can "bulge" once the hook is inserted. You don't want to make the pockets too narrow and thus too tight for the hooks.

Then you can add ribbon strands at both short ends so that when you add the hooks and roll it up, you can tie it closed. That keeps the hooks safe from getting lost or scratched and it still is a small enough package to either carry with you or store handily at home.

Merme
Posted By: MaryReboakly Re: Crochet 101 - August 9th, 2005 at 12:28 AM
Crochet abbreviations

Once you know the stitches, you can read patterns easily by remembering a few basic shorthand abbreviations for stitches. There are so many free patterns and stuff online now. Here's a basic rundown of some abbreviations:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - trebble (triple) crochet
dtr - double trebble crochet
slst - slip stitch
yo - yarn over
fo - fasten off
rnd - round (when you're doing something in circle)
rep - repeat

Here's an example of a bookmark pattern:
R1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch. Ch 1, turn. (7 sc)
R2: Sc in same st as beg ch-1. Sc in each remaining st. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 3-36: Repeat Row 2.
Fasten Off & Weave in Ends.

'Translated', it would read:
Row 1: chain 8, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining chain. Chain 1, turn.
Row 2: Single crochet in same stitch as beginning chain 1. Single crochet in each remaining stitch. Chain 1, turn.
Row 3:Repeat Row 2. Fasten Off & Weave in Ends.

You may see now, even with this simple pattern, that shorthand makes pattern reading, writing, and following much less clumsy!
Posted By: catlover Re: Crochet 101 - August 9th, 2005 at 06:52 AM
kit
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 01:32 AM
An historical note for those of you with an interest in history...

Before pattern instructions were modernized and put into the format we see most commonly today, crocheters of the past referenced their stitches differently than we do.

They referred to the stitch we call the "slip stitch" as a "Single Crochet". What we call a single, they called a double, and so on!

I tell you, reading some antique patterns can be very misleading if you are not aware of this quirk!

Merme
Posted By: Anonymous Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 01:56 AM
Thank you for taking time to type out all this valuable information for those of us who are crochet-illiterate, Merme and Mary! kissies

Can you suggest where we can find explanations on how to execute the different stitches?
"Slip-stitch, double-trebble, fasten-off", it is like learning a foreign language! :rolleyes: laugh
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 03:33 AM
Cricket, in answer to your question....

THE BASIC FIVE STITCHES

A "slip stitch" is

Insert hook through loop, y/o, pull yarn through. This allows you to move across the stitches below without adding height. A slip stitch can also be used to join rounds together without adding additional stitches.

A "single crochet" is

Insert hook through loop, y/o, pull through, y/o and pull through both loops on hook.


A "double crochet" is

y/o, insert hook through loop, y/o,pull through, y/o, pull through 2 loops on hook, y/o pull through last 2 loops on hook.


A "half double crochet" is

y/o, insert hook through loop, y/o, pull through, y/o, pull through all 3 loops on hook at one time.


A "triple crochet" is

y/o 2 times, insert hook in loop, y/o, pull through first 2 loops on hook, y/o, pull through next 2 loops on hook, y/o, pull through last 2 loops on hook.

You see? The name of the stitch refers to how many times you y/o and pull through sets of loops on the hook. You do it once for a single crochet, twice for a double, and three times for a triple.

The half double stitch means there are 3 loops on the hook as for a regular double, but you remove them all at once as for a single, so it is a "between" stitch. This is commonly used in a row that moves in height between a dc and and sc and you want it to look more like a slope than a step.


FASTEN OFF means, at the very end of your work where there is only one loop left on the hook, you y/o, pull through and cut the end. The yarn end attached to the skein or ball will be pulled out and the yarn end attached to your work will be left behind. You can pull the end in your work tightly so the last loop that was on your hook closes around it, making a knot.

For neatness and further security, you weave the loose end through the stitches. So you don't want to leave too long of a tail for weaving in most cases; an inch or so should do ya. If you do happen to have an extra long one, you can trim it after you weave it through a few times.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 11:43 AM
POSITIONING THE HANDS

Let's talk about the ways one can hold the hands for ease in crocheting.

The left hand holds the yarn or thread that leads to the skein or ball. It also controls the amount of "tension" - or- how "taut" the yarn is.

Tension is really important because it can completely alter a piece of work. Too tight, and the project will be much smaller than planned. Too loose, and it will be too big. Also, if you work with too much tension, you can make it difficult to pull the hook in and out easily.

An uneven amount of tension, going back and forth between loose and tight, will make a terribly irregular appearance of your work that won't please you any. It takes PRACTICE to learn proper tension and regularity of stitches, so don't despair.

I will add a word about "guage" later.

But for the left hand...

The yarn should come up between your thumb and pointer finger. It then goes over the back of the pointer and down between the pointer and middle finger. From there it passes across the palm loosely. Curl the pinky in just a bit to help hold it, but not too tightly. From under the pinky the yarn goes to the ball or skein.

Do not try to hold your stitches or your work with the thumb and pointer of the left hand. You need to be able to freely move your pointer up and down to control tension and keep the yarn moving well. Whatever you need to hold, hold it between the thumb and the middle finger, keeping the pointer up.

The right hand:

Here you have two options.

There is a very stylized, formal way of holding the hook for one option. This is the traditional way most people are taught.

In this grasp, you hold your hand with the palm facing up, toward you. Place the hook in your fingers with the hook end to the left and the top of the shank to the right, grasping it with your thumb and midway up your pointer just above where the indentation is in the hook.

Curl your middle finger a bit so that the nearly the tip is against the hook. Extend your ring finger all the way so that the tip is also against the hook. The pinky is kept free.


This is a very attractive, sort of elegant, pose for the right hand that the majority of people use.

However, there are some of us who prefer (or by necessity, must) use an alternate grasp.

In this optional grasp, the hook is placed in the fist with the palm facing down, away from you. The thumb and forefinger are near the hook end of the hook with the thumb extended fully and the pointer bent down so the hook rests against the inside of the first joint above the knuckle. In this grasp, the hook is held fairly loosely by all the other fingers and is excellent for people with hand or wrist difficulties.

For myself, I can crochet so much FASTER with my hook held this way, inelegant though it may be! And, with the thumb so near the hook end of the hook, I can use my thumb as needed to help control the loops on the hook.

So try both ways and see which you like best. As awkward as it feel at first, soon it will all be quite comfortable and seemingly second nature.

Merme
Posted By: Anonymous Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 03:53 PM
Oh, my poor head! kissies kissies angell
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 10:28 PM
Hi again everyone~

Let's talk a bit about something Cricket mentioned...picking first projects to try.

I recommend that your very first project should be something:

Small
Simple
Easy to complete
And in a color you can really enjoy working with for a while.

It can take time to develop the ability to create really EVEN work, with all the stitches of the same size, one neatly done row after another. This takes PRACTICE and no one does it instantly!

But with practice, you can get yourself going so well you too will be able to achieve marvelous work equal to anyone else's.

Lots of people try to begin with something like a blanket. And certainly, that is an option. But personally, I don't recommend beginning with something that large -- for several reasons.

A blanket requires a considerable amount of time, even for an experienced crocheter. Often they have unusual patterns that are rather handsome but need to be executed perfectly in order for the blanket to have a pleasing appearance when completed.

There is also the issue of the color chosen. When you are making something large like a blanket or complex, like a sweater, be SURE you absolutely adore the color(s) you've selected because you are going to be looking at it for a long time! I guarantee there are few things worse then getting halfway through a project and realizing you are sick of looking at the thing and shoving it into a closet until further notice!

So, start small.
Start simple.
Start easy.
And choose your color well!

There is nothing wrong whatsoever with selecting a simple scarf for your very first project. You could even make an entire wardrobe of scarves for yourself, each one introducing a new stitch pattern and color. Or you could make scarves for your entire family. If you can master a scarf, you can master just about anything else there is, so don't think a scarf is unworthy.

It's actually rather like the musician who devotes much time to playing scales. If she can beautifully execute a musical scale in any key, then there is no piece of music beyond her reach. You see?

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 11:05 PM
Hi ~ wavey

Now let's talk a bit about choosing yarns.

Many patterns will give you a specific name brand, type of yarn and even color specifications. Some won't. And others you may wish to change to suit yourself. So here are a few guidelines to keep in mind when making selections.

First, consider the WEIGHT of the yarn you are looking over. Be sure that it is suitable for the project you are buying it for. Not only does weight of the yarn have an impact on "guage" (which we'll discuss later) and thus on size, but it also has an effect on useability or durability.

So if your pattern suggests a Worsted weight, 4 ply yarn, avoid looking at Sport weights which will be much thinner, or any of the Chunky, Bulky yarns available, which will make your project much thicker and bigger.

And there are ample selections in the Worsted weight category, so just take your time.

Think: What am I using this yarn for? Something that will require reqular laundering? or something that may be cleaned once every five years? Something that will be rubbing against bare skin or sitting on a shelf as a decoration?

SO FEEL YOUR YARNS CAREFULLY when you are shopping for yarn to make something to wear!

Many of the acrylics are 1) inexpensive 2)easy to work with 3)trouble free for laundering 4)come in a wide choice of colors that don't fade.

BUT! acrylics can be scratchy, even as real wool can be. So if it is something that will probably be against your face, be sure your face can stand the texture before you buy the yarn and invest all your efforts into making it.

Also, there are literally hundreds of very beautiful and fascinating designer yarns on the market these days. I'm sure you've seen the "Fun Fur" and boa-type yarns everywhere. Walking down the designer yarn aisle you will also see yarns with metallic thread added or glittery stuff or even small reflective mirrors and charms.

Then there is the whole category of the ultra bulky yarns that can be whipped up into a handsome cap or scarf in no time at all, hardly.

And certainly, all these choices are fun to try -- once you get a bit of experience behind you.

These yarns typically take a bit of effort in managing them while the work progresses. They can tangle easily. And, because they are made with so many loose fibers attached, it is easy to snag the hook where you don't mean to or have a problem passing the hook in and out.

With the bulky yarns you really must use hooks in the larger sizes...Size K on up, as they are the only ones big enough to catch the entire strand for the pull through part of the stitch.

So if you do choose to buy a bulky yarn to make an incredibly warm scarf for your first project, be sure to also purchase the correct size hook that will be listed on the yarn label if you don't already have it at home.

Also, be aware that although most yarns pull out easily if you've made a mistake and want to rework a particular row (or 2 or 10...), these designer yarns and bulky yarns DO NOT pull out easily! All those loose fibers tend to knot up while you are pulling your work out.

You can end up needing to carefully use scissors to get it out and thus waste yarn and maybe not have enough to complete the project... I'm telling ya that it can be annoying to have to buy another entire skein of an expensive yarn to complete just two rows to finish a project because you had to waste some of the original skein! Truly, that's a situation much to be avoided!

Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 11:10 PM
Since you mentioned it, how easy are the bulky adn fuzzy yarns to work with. Id really like to make Lys a scarf with one of those types of yarn but am really nervouse about trying it since I havent gone there yet.
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 10th, 2005 at 11:33 PM
A FEW INTERESTING PATTERN STITCHES TO TRY

A brief word about directions for pattern stitches.

Most specific stitch instructions will include a reference to the number of chains you will need along your base row to execute the pattern.

For instance, the POPCORN stitch. If you want to do a practice swatch of it, so that you can repeat the stitch several times in the rows to get an understanding of how it will appear over a larger area, how do you know how MANY chains to do in order to make your foundation row so that you have enough for each repeat or so that you don't have extra chains hanging off the end? The instructions should tell you the answer to that question.

Instructions for the POPCORN stitch say "mulitiple of 4 + 2 chs". So what does that mean?

It means if you want to repeat the stitch 5 times in your swatch, you would begin with Chain 20 and then add the 2 additional chains. You would NOT multiply the 6 chains mentioned in the instructions, just the 4.

Ok, so here are the instructions for the POPCORN stitch:

MULTIPLE of 4 + 2 chains.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. TO WORK POPCORN, 4 sc in sc or sp indicated, drop loop from hook, insert hook in first sc of 4 sc group, hook dropped loop and draw through.
Row 2: (right side): Ch 1, turn; sc in first sc *ch 1, skip next sc, work Popcorn in next sc, ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * across.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in first sc and in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) across to last sc, sc in last sc.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn; sc in first sc, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, * work POPCORN in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * across to last 2 sc, skip next sc, sc in last sc.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn; sc in first sc and in next ch-1 sp (ch1, sc in next ch-1 sp) across to last sc, sc in last sc.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn; sc in first sc, ch 1, work POPCORN in next ch-1 s, ch 1 * sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, work POPCORN in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * across to last 2 sc, skip next sc, sc in last sc.
Repeat Rows 3 to 6 for pattern.


SNAPDRAGON STITCH

Multiple of 8 + 5 chs.
Row 1: (right side): DC in fifth ch from hook, *skip next 3 chns, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 3 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc)in next ch; repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, * 5 dc in next ch-1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc; repeat from * across to last sp, 3 dc in last sp.
Row 3: Ch 4, turn; dc in first dc, * 5 dc in next ch-1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc; repeat from * across.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern.


SEED STITCH

Multiple of 2 chs
Row 1: (right side): Sc in second ch from hook, (ch 1, skip nest ch, sc in next ch) across.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc in first sc and in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) across to last sc, sc in last sc.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn; sc in first sc, ch 1, (sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) across to last 2 sc, skip next sc, sc in last sc.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern.


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 12:59 AM
THE MOST FAMOUS (and WARM!) HOODED SCARF!

One recommended yarn is:

Red Heart "Light & Lofty", which is 100% acrylic and is sold in 6 oz skeins. You will need 15 oz for this scarf (adult size).

Hook: US Size N-15 [10mm]
or use any hook to obtain gauge of
8 sts = 4", 5 rows + 4"


Chain 24, Row 1: Skip first 5 ch, (2 dc in next ch, skip next ch) 9 times, one dc in last ch; turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, skip first dc, (2 dc in sp between NEXT 2 dc) 9 times, dc in top of turning ch, turn.
Rep Row 2 for pat until 72" from beg. Fasten off.

Fold scarf in half. Beginning at the fold, sew a 10" seam (with yarn and tapestry needle) to form hood. Weave in ends.


This scarf can also be made a wider width by adding more chains in the beginning. In a wider width, the scarf hood part can be folded back on itself as a double layer for extra warmth on windy/really cold days, plus it forms a nice shawl when dropped to the back.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 01:16 AM
Hi everyone ~ wavey

FINALLY, a word about gauge!

Ok, most patterns will give you a blurb about "gauge". It will say that so many stitches should equal this many inches; and these many rows should grow this tall. OK?

Sounds easy enough, right? If 8 stitches are to equal 4" for instance, and 5 rows are to equal 4" with a certain type yarn and hook size, then why might YOUR 8 stitches only equal 3 inches and YOUR 5 rows only 3"? Or even YOUR 8 stitches and 5 rows make a square that turns out 6" x 6"?

It's all a matter of gauge PLUS your personal tension style of crocheting.

Everyone crochets with a different amount of "tension" in their work. It's not something that someone can say "crochet to this degree of tautness exactly!" and measure it scientifically. Some people work more loosely or tightly than others.

So...when a pattern gives a "gauge", take a few moments and make the swatch with the proper yarn and hook size suggested. Then measure it to see how YOUR tension compares to the recommended finished size given.

If the swatch is SUPPOSED to be 4" x 4" and yours is only 3" x 3"...you need to either a) loosen up your stitches a bit OR b) use a larger hook.

Conversely, if your swatch turns out to be 6" x 6" instead of the recommended 4" x 4", then you should a) tighten up your stitches OR b) use a smaller hook.

BECAUSE the pattern is written in such a way as to help you achieve the finished project to the correct size!

If you are making a child's medium sweater, you really don't want it ending up fitting an adult medium. Or a tiny dress meant to cover a toilet paper roll becoming large enough to be worn by your youngest child. Don't laugh laugh things like that happen all the time.

So, be patient enough to make your gauge swatch BEFORE you begin the project. If it isn't the suggested size, make adjustments as needed. Then, if you haven't cut the yarn, just pull the swatch apart and begin your project.

Also, be SURE you are using the correct (specified) yarn and hook size recommended for the gauge, as you may have accidently picked up the wrong hook or were tempted in the store to buy a substitue yarn.

Although many patterns can be used with other yarn options, you have to consider how the yarn exchange will effect the total project. So... gauge is something important to know about!

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 02:56 AM
ON THE IMPORTANCE OF COUNTING YOUR STITCHES AND ROWS

It is a marvelous idea to get in the habit immediately, with your very first project, of counting your stitches for each row.

I know, I know, it can be a daunting prospect as you work your way across 189 stitches for a blanket, to count each and every one of them.

But really, unless you are working in a particular pattern that gives you a clear indication you've ended the row correctly, there is really no other way of telling if you have perhaps added a few more stitches -- or lost a few -- as you worked the row.

So what's the big deal, you may well ask?

Well, losing or gaining stitches in places where they are NOT supposed to be lost or gained, will skew your work! Instead of nice, straight edges on your blankets or garment pieces that you will actually be able to align and sew together, you will have crookedness. And you will have odd little unintentional textures across the face of your item.

The edges of anything you crochet should look like this;

l___l
l___l
l___l

and not like

l____l
l______l
l_____l
l____l

you see?

And the best way to gaurantee that you will NOT have to tear out rows that have grown to an unlikely length is by counting! After all, much work went into those rows in the first place, so you really don't want to rip them out and do them all over!

However, if you are doing a pattern such as a Ripple Stitch afghan or blanket, and you know you have 11 chevrons across the row and by glancing at your work you see you have 11, then you are golden and don't have to count each stitch. Plus the peaks and valleys of the row would also be an indicator that you are not adding or subtracting anything willy-nilly.

By the way, adding or subtracting, gaining or losing stitches ON PURPOSE is called "INCREASING and DECREASING".

So count whenever you need to...which is quite often, more than likely. It will spare you much grief, I promise you that!


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 03:07 AM
MORE ABOUT YARN WEIGHT:

Yarn weight (meaning it's type or size) is divided into six basic categories...


1) FINGERING yarn. These are fine weight yarns most often used for socks and baby clothes or items of some delicacy.

2) SPORT yarn. These are a bit heavier than Fingering yarns but are still light enough for light-weight sweaters, baby clothes, afghans, etc.

3) DOUBLE-KNIT yarn. This can be a good choice for sweaters and afghans that you don't want to be too bulky or heavy.

4) WORSTED yarn. Perhaps the most versatile of all the yarns. Sweaters, vests, hats, afghans, mittens, toys...you name it, you can probably make it out of worsted.

5) HEAVY WORSTED yarn. Ideal for sweaters and afghans or other items you would like to be extra heavy.

6) BULKY yarn. These can be worked into fun hats and mittens, heavy sweaters, scarves, jackets and even coats. Also some toy patterns would work well in the bulky category.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 03:23 AM
A WAY TO MAKE FRINGE

If your pattern doesn't specify directions for finge making, or if you would like to add it to something you've made or own already, here is one good way to do it.

Cut a piece of fairly stiff cardboard 3 inches wide and half as tall as you'd like your strands to be, remembering that some of the length will be lost in the attachment.

So if you want 6" long fringe, I would suggest thinking of perhaps 3.5" to 4" for the height of the cardboard.

Once your cardboard is cut, simply wrap your yarn from top to bottom, a bit loosely, but evenly. Try not to overlap the wraps.

When you get to the end, cut the yarn even at the bottom edge. Then, carefully cut all the way across the bottom end so that you finish with individual long strands of the desired doubled length.

Gather them up neatly together and fold them in half.

TO ATTACH FRINGE:

With WRONG side of item facing you, insert a hook down into the stitch or space you'd like your fringe to be. Holding on to the bundle of folded strands with your left hand, use the hook to grab the folded strands at the fold itself and pull them through forming a loop made of multiple strands.

Once you have the folded segment pulled through, withdraw your hook and pull the cut ends of the strands through the folded end. Some people use a hook for this step, others prefer their fingers. Just make sure you pull all the loose ends completely through.

When all the loose ends are through, grasp them together and pull up tightly so that the loop gets smaller and locks them into place.

If the cut ends have an uneven appearance, you can lay the work on a table and trim them carefully.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 09:38 AM
PRACTICE LESSON ONE -- FOR THE BEGINNER BEGINNER!

Oh, I'm so sorry and I apologize to all you brand new beginners. I sent this in a PM to someone and later thought I had posted it! So I will re-write it tonight so you ALL can have the first lesson.

The very FIRST thing you need to learn how to do is to "CHAIN".

The chain becomes the first edge of any flat piece you will ever crochet or the innermost part of any circle, so it's importance is paramount.

I would suggest you get yourself a ball or part of a ball of inexpensive yarn in a color you don't object to seeing. A worsted weight is probably the easiest. Get either a G or an H hook.

Ok, so to begin at the very beginning, you first must make a loop.

Take the cut end of the yarn, giving yourself oh about 3 to 4 inches, and simply cross it over to make a loop that isn't knotted, like an X whose top is closed.

Now, bring the cut end that is hanging down alongside of the connected end, and bring it up UNDER the loop you have made, so it bisects the loop.

Next, using your hook, pass it OVER the right hand side of the loop, UNDER the bisecting yarn, and back up OVER the left hand side of the loop.

The bisecting yarn will now be on top of your hook. Carefully grasping the tail of the cut end with you left hand, pull up on the hook with your right hand. The loop that was bisected will tighten around the base of the loop on your hook, making it secure.

Don't worry about how much of a tail the cut end has got as long as there is at least an inch or so dangling.

NOW YOU ARE READY TO ACTUALLY START TO CROCHET!

Following the instructions on how to wrap the yarn in your left hand, grasp the base of the knot you made with the dangling yarn under it (remembering to hold it with your thumb and middle finger).

Yarn over (y/o), and pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. CHAIN 1 complete!

If you can't get the hook to come out of the loop that is on it, you are holding the knot too tightly, so loosen it up a bit and try again.

Remember, all you are doing is y/o and pull through, y/o and pull through.

As you work you will begin to notice something. There will seem to be a difference in the size of your chains. Some will be smaller than others, some will look silly they are so loose.

That is because you are learning how to control the tension while learning how to move the hook at the same time.

Just keep going without fretting. Soon, oh after about 19,000 chains or so -- just kidding! -- you will feel more comfortable with the position of the hands, the yarn itself, as well as maneuvering the hook.

You will pick up speed and will notice a certain rhythm to your work. Your chains will become more uniform.

If it looks like too much of a mess in the beginning, do not hesitate to rip it all out and begin again. And again. And again if necessary. Just keep chaining. It is really THAT important!

By the way, I use the basic chain for any number of non-crocheted projects too. It makes for a very sturdy holding loop for anything fairly heavy.

I just chain to twice the length of the holding loop I want, finish off, and cut the yarn. With both ends secure, I simply fold the chain in half, and slide the folded end through whatever I want to hold up. Then, I just insert the two secured ends through the folded loop and pull until the loop tightens around them. And there I go, all set to hang whatever it was I wanted to hang.

This is ideal for hanging things outside by the way, as the chained yarn is very durable.

I have also made miles of chain in holiday colors to use as decorations. One year when Maxi was quite young, I made a chain using crochet thread instead of cotton, and I crocheted colorful Fruit Loops cereal right into the chain. It made a happy garland in our living room for the kid!

Also, you can chain using the cut legs of panty hose and a large hook. Once you have a long enough chain, you can make it into a rug for in front of a sink. Just lay one end of the chain on a table and begin to wrap the rest of the chain around and around, securing it together with simple whip stitches in plain, sturdy thread. Round or oval, depending on what you want. When it is big enough to suit you, stop.

The applications are nearly limitless PLUS as I said before, everything else you crochet will begin with a chain, so practice it!

And if you put it in and take it out so much the yarn gets fuzzy and frayed, just cut off the damaged part and begin again with fresh stuff.

You can do it, I know.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 10:09 PM
HOW TO MAKE HANGING TOWELS

Materials:

18 x 28 Kitchen towel, which will make 2 hanging towels.

5/8" Buttons - 2

Sewing needle and thread

A sewing machine is handy but not necessary!

Worsted weight yarn in color to complement towel design, about 1.5 oz.

Size G/4.00mm Hook


PREPARE THE TOWEL

Fold towel in half so that short ends match and cut carefully along the fold.

If you have a sewing machine, simply zig zag along the cut edge, the turn under and hem.

If you don't have a sewing machine, you'll need to hem this edge by hand because remember towel fabric will fray!

You could overcast the raw edge then fold under twice, keeping the hem shallow.

Or you could apply some seam tape and also fold under.

CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS:

Row 1: With RIGHT side facing and working just below hem along top of towel, join* yarn with sc in top right corner. Now work 64 sc spaced evenly across top of towel. The row finishes with a total of 65 sc.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc now and in each row later) turn; dc in next sc and in each sc across.

Row 3: Ch 3, turn; (skip next dc, dc in next dc) across. The row finishes with a total of 33 dc.

Row 4: Ch 3, turn; dc in next dc and in each dc across.

Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 3 and 4. The 6th Row finishes with a total of 17 dc.

Rows 7 and 8: Ch 3, turn; (skip next dc, dc in next dc) across. The 8th Row finishes with a total of 5 dc.

Rows 9 through 17: Ch 3, turn; dc in next dc and in each dc across.

Row 18 BUTTONHOLE ROW: Ch 3, turn; dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in last 2 dc. The row finishes with a total of 4 dc and 1 ch.

Row 19: Ch 3, turn; dc in next dc and in each st across; finish off. The row finishes with a total of 5 dc.

SEW button to RIGHT side of hanger at Row 6.


*how to JOIN with sc: Begin with slip knot on hook. Inset hook in place indicated, Y/O and pull up a loop, Y/O and draw through both loops on hook.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 11th, 2005 at 10:54 PM
BOOKWORM!

This is a quick and cute project. Children enjoy playing with these and the Bookworm can also be used as a bookmark.

It is a good way to practice your skills and to use up scrap amounts of yarn. The brighter the color, the better!

Materials:

Scrap worsted weight yarn, any bright color.

a G or an H hook.

"Google" eyes

a dab of white glue.


CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS:

While you could make this any length you'd like, start out by trying it this length...

Ch 30, then 2 dc in fourth ch from hook, 3 dc in each stitch of chain.

You will see the chain start to spiral as you work the dc's into each chain. This is the body of BOOKWORM.

When you get to the end of your spiral, add one sc into the beginning of the chain to give the end a more finished appearance.

Next, crochet a chain as long as you would like it to be. This is the chain that gets placed inside the book. When it is a long as you want it, mark the last chain with either a safety pin or a short strand of extra yarn tied to it.

Now to work the tail...

Ch 20, 2 dc in fourth chain from hook, 3 dc in each chain back to your marked stitch. Fasten off. Weave in ends, trim any excess.

Glue "Google Eyes" to head.

If you are making this for a very young child, skip the Google Eyes and you can just use another color yarn to make either X eyes or French Knots. Also, be sure to keep the middle chain short enough so that the very young child can't get it caught around his neck.

Enjoy!

OPTION: You can sew a small jingle bell to the bottom if you'd like.

You can also use these spirals to make arms and legs for any number of other projects...

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 12th, 2005 at 06:02 AM
UNUSUAL AND VERY PRETTY POT HOLDER (FLAT)

This pot holder is very attractive worked in two colors. Color A is the background color and Color B is for making cords that get woven through the potholder later, making a nice stripe. Because the potholder is made of two separate squares, it is double thickness with a nice edging holding the front and back squares together.

Also your skeins of yarn must be divided into two separate balls so that you can use two strands worked together for each stitch.


MATERIALS:

SPORT WEIGHT YARN in the two contrasting colors of your choice.

The Main/Background color will be Color A.
The cord/edging color will be Color B.

Hook: Size H/5.00mm

TO MAKE THE CORDS:

Using two strands of Color B, ch 28, slip st in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. Finish off.

Make 8. Set aside.


TO MAKE THE FRONT: (You will be making TWO of these, which you can call Top & Bottom or Front & Back)

With Color A, using two strands of yarn, ch 26.
Row 1: (Right Side): dc in fourth ch from hook (skipped part of chain counts as first dc) and in next 2 chs *ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next 4 chs; repeat from * across. You will finish the row with 20 dc and 4 ch-1 spaces.

Rows 2 to 10: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; dc in next 3 dc, (ch 1,dc in next 4 dc) across; do NOT finish off.


EDGING:

This is a bit unusual because although it IS made in 2 Rounds, you finish off at the end of Round 1. Then you add your cords to the face. THEN you do Round 2 of edging.

Round 1 is worked with Color A.
Round 2 is worked with Color B.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in first dc, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across to last dc, 3 sc in last dc; *working in end of rows, sc in first row, 2 sc in each of the next 8 rows, sc in last row**; working in free loops of beginning ch, 3 sc in first ch, sc in next 22 chs, 3 sc in next ch, repeat from * to ** once, sc in same st as first sc, join with slip st to first sc, finish off. You will have 92 sc when you are finished.


ADDING CORDS:
Select FOUR of the cords you have previously made. Hold your work WRONG SIDE facing, weave one cord vertically through first row of ch-1 sp on Body front. Keep ends of cord to the Wrong Side.

Add remaining 3 cords evenly spaced across front in the same vertical direction, using the ch-1 spaces.

Rnd 2: (Joining Round) With RIGHT side facing, join Color B with sc in same st as joining; 2 sc in same st + sc in next 4 sc *insert hook in next sc AND cord BEHIND sc, y/o and pull up a loop, y/o and draw through both loops on hook, sc in next 4 sc; repeat from* 3 times MORE, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to center sc of next 3-sc group ++, 3 sc in center sc, repeat from + to ++ once; join with slip st to first sc, finish off. You should finish with 100 sc.


TO MAKE THE BACK, work same as front.


JOINING:
With WRONG SIDES together, so that ends of cords are neatly hidden, have FRONT or TOP facing and work through BOTH layers. Join Color B with sl st in center sc of top right corner 3-sc group; slip st in each st around; join with slip st to first slip st, chain 10 for hanger. Hold ch to LEFT of hook, slip st in same st as joing and in each ch around. Finish Off.


I believe this updated version of an older pattern was created by Designer Roberta Maier. If so, we owe her many thanks!

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 12th, 2005 at 10:33 PM
Hi everyone ~ wavey

If anyone would like me to create a sample of something for you to SEE while I'm waiting to get my camera, please just send me a PM with your address AND what it is you would like a sample of, okay?


Just don't ask for an entire project, okie dokie? Like "gee, Merme, could you send me samples of six baby blankets and 4 sweaters in these sizes..."


laugh laugh laugh

Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 12th, 2005 at 10:41 PM
Had to smile at that one. Hey I can share a bit of a sample of the 6-sided one you described. It is more than the couple of rows, but will give everyone an idea of what ti looks like. Gimme a minute to take a pic and get it all loaded.
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 12th, 2005 at 10:50 PM
Ok here you go.

I am making this using Red Heart Soft baby yarn, Bunny Print is the color and a size E hook.

[Linked Image]
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 05:56 AM
VERY handsome, Triss, very, very nicely done!


Everyone, please notice about the pattern Triss is doing...

She is using the 6 sided format but as one entire, blanket-sized motif rather than making many small motifs to connect together.

Fascinating, isn't it?

The 6-sided Granny Square can be made with two rounds, six rounds, or 100 and more rounds. As long as you keep to the pattern, it doesn't matter how many rounds you add, the 6 sides will remain intact.

So you see? The applications are nearly limitless.

You could make two 6-sided Granny Squares of 8 or so rounds each and sew them together on five sides, add a handle and a cloth lining and have a beautiful purse for casual wear.

You could make a dozen or so 6-sided Granny Squares of perhaps 4 rounds and attach them together into a long scarf.

You could make a few hundred of them and attach them together into a blanket of any size.

Made in thread and using steel hooks rather than in yarn with aluminum hooks, this would be very delicate work indeed. How about a top or edging at the hemline for a nightie or a slip, sewn on applique style?

Thank you, Triss, for bringing this nice work of yours to our attention.

Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 06:24 AM
Awwwww shocked You have me blushing. Thank you. I will continue to post pics every so often so you all can see my work in progress. Might inspire me to actually work on it!
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 07:08 AM
[Linked Image]


This is the hat, mitten and scarf set I designed and worked up for Maxi last year for Christmas. Melcon6 was nice enough to photograph it for me the day she put up our Christmas Tree.

As you can see, this is a very simple pattern which I just enhanced by additional colors and application of the star motifs. It all worked up very quickly and he was ohsodelighted on Christmas Morning! My kid loves items with a Patriotic Theme!

I'm also happy to report that because it was worked with colorfast 100% acrylic yarn, it stood up well to the wear 'n tear of a kid playing in wintertime Maine. I can only guess at the number of times it all went through the washer and how often those items were laid to dry on the radiator, but it was quite a few! And they are perfectly fine to have another go at it this coming winter. Made for just a few dollars, we certainly got our money's worth out of the investment thus far!

And again, allow me to point out that any such simple pattern can be enhanced to suit the person you are working it for. This cap, scarf and mittens could just as easily be worked in different colors with flowers, butterflies or even smilies as the appliques. So don't be afraid to experiment and let your imagination roam free!


Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 07:11 AM
That is so pretty. I bet he did like them.
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 07:19 AM
One additional note concerning the hat,scarf and mitten set.

Please notice that although the "field" of stars for the scarf worked in blue was worked so the rows ran vertically, the stripes for the flag body were worked horizontally.

This is an unexpected configuration of the rows which I did purposefully for two reasons.

1) If I had worked the stripes in the same orientation as the field, I would have had to change colors every four or five stitches.

That is of course easy enough to do as when the color changes come so close together, you just carry the unused yarn across the back to the next spot you need it.

But I thought about reason

2) I wanted the scarf to have a "finished" appearance on BOTH sides, so that it would look good any way he wrapped it around his neck or over his shoulder.

So in this instance, I was willing to forego the matching orientation of rows between the two pieces in order to achieve the finished look of the project that I wanted.

Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 07:30 AM
You had me going back thinking I missed a pattern somewhere along the way, but nope, there is not a pattern in here for that set. So you have one by chance or is that an off the top of my head?

BTW, I am putting all of this into a word document for myself so I can refer back to it often.
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 13th, 2005 at 12:07 PM
TRADITIONAL "WATCH CAP" (Version I)


S/M (M/L)
Finished cap measures 12.5 or (13)inches long and 21.5 or (22.5)inches around.

MATERIALS

Chunky Yarn, 2 skeinss in color of your choice.

Hooks Sizes K/6.5mm and I/5.5mm crochet hook or sizes to obtain gauge

Large-eyed, blunt needle

GAUGE
10 sts + 11 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in single crochet with larger hook. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

This variation of the traditional "Watch Cap" is interesting because the pattern BEGINS directly above the ribbing!

When the cap is completely made, including shaping for the crown, you finish off. Weave ends. And THEN begin the ribbing at the bottom.

This Watch Cap works up very quickly and easily.

STITCH EXPLANATIONS

"Sc2tog" means "Single Crochet Two Stitches Together" is a typical way of DECREASING the size of the pattern you are working on. It is done like this:

Draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts, y/o and draw through all 3 loops on hook.


"FPDC" means "Front Post Double Croshet" which means you will be working from the FRONT to the BACK to the FRONT again -- AROUND -- the POST of the stitch in the previous row. Remember: the POST is the vertical part of any stitch. The FPDC is done like this:

Y/O, insert hook from front to back then to front, going around the dc post, draw up a loop, (Y/O and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. DO NOT THEN ALSO WORK IN THE HORIZONTAL PART OF THE STITCH! Just ignore it and follow the directions as to what to do with the NEXT stitch.


"BPDC" means "Back Post Double Crochet". In this stitch you will be working from the BACK to the FRONT to the BACK again - AROUND - the POST of the stitch in the previous row. It is done in exactly the opposite direction of the FPDC. Work it like this:

Y/O, insert hook from back to front then to back, going around the dc post, draw up a loop, (Y/O and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Here too, you ignore the hortizontal part of the stitch in the row below. Just skip it and follow the directions for the NEXT stitch.

It is this working back and forth with FPDC and BPDC that allows you to create the ribbing texture with crochet that is normally seen with knitted patterns. Bear in mind that there are differences in the appearance between the two, however. The crochet version is not a direct imitation of the knitted kind WHEN WORKED IN THIS MANNER.

SIZES:
The first set of stitch numbers refer to sizes Small and Medium S/M. The second set of numbers refers to size Medium and Large M/L. When working with a pattern that gives instructions in mulitiple sizes, it is a good idea to mark your copy of the pattern with a highlighter each place the variations are given so you are less likely to use the incorrect one for the size option you've selected.

Ok, THE INSTRUCTIONS

Remember that you are starting at the bottom edge and working the hat upwards.

Ch 55 for S/M or (57) for M/L.

Foundation Row will be your RIGHT SIDE (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 54 stitches for S/M and (56)stitches for M/L; turn.

COUNT YOUR STITCHES AT THIS POINT! If you do not have either 54 or 56, figure out why and try again. Please do NOT try to "fudge it" and say "Well, I have 55, that's close enough!" The stitch count is very important in this pattern, so double check yours now.


For Body Pattern: Ch 1, sc in each sc across; turn.

Now you will continue to work in Body Pattern until the piece is approximately 5.5" (S/M) or 6" for (M/L). Be sure to end with a Wrong Side Row. If you are at 5.5" or 6" and are on a Right Side Row, go ahead and do one more.

NOW TO SHAPE THE CROWN:

Remember you will be DECREASING the number of stitches as you go in order for the piece to narrow to fit the top of the head.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 2 (3) sc; * sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sc; rep from * across ending sc2tog, sc in last 2 (3) sc. At the end of this row you should have either 45 stitches for (S/M) or (47) stitches for M/L. Turn.

Row 2 and EACH FOLLOWING WRONG SIDE ROW Ch 1, sc in each sc across; turn. You see? On the WRONG SIDE ROWS you do NOT DECREASE.

Row 3 Ch 1, sc in first 2 (3) sc; * sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sc; rep from * across ending sc2tog, sc in 1 (2) sc. At the end of this decrease row you should have 36 stitches for (S/M) or (38) stitches for M/L; turn.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

Row 5 Ch 1, sc in first 2 (3) sc; * sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sc; rep from * across ending sc2tog, sc in 0 (1) sc. At the end of this decrease row you should have 27 stitches for S/M and (29) stitches for M/L; turn.

Row 6: Repeat Row 2.

Row 7 Ch 1, (sc2tog) across ending sc in last sc. At the end of this DECREASE row, you should have 14 stitches for S/M and (15) stitches for M/L; turn.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Leaving a tail measuring approximately 18?, fasten off.

Now thread the tail you have left into a yarn needle and pass it back through the back loops of the remaining 14 (15) sts. When all the stitches have been threaded, you pull up tightly to close the opening.

Then, using the remaining tail, join sides by sewing, making a back seam. Secure yarn by weaving. Fasten off.

Now you are ready for the RIBBING

With the RIGHT SIDE facing and SMALLER HOOK, join yarn with a slip st in lower edge.

JOINING ROW: Ch 3 (counts as dc), working along unused loops of Foundation, work 52 for S/M or (54)for M/L MORE dc around. At end, skip last ch, join with a slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-3. At the end of this joining row you should have 53 stitches for S/M and(55) stitches for M/L; turn.

Rnd 1 Ch 2, FPDC over next dc; (BPDC over next 2 dc, FPDC over next 2 dc) around, ending BPDC over next 2 dc, FPDC over last dc; join with a slip st in 2nd ch of beginning ch-2.

Rnd 2 Ch 2, FPDC over FPDC; (BPDC over next 2 BPDC, FPDC over next 2 FPDC) around ending BPDC over next 2 BPDC, FPDC over last FPDC; join with a slip st in 2nd ch of beginning ch-2.

Repeat Rnd 2 until ribbing measures approximately 4.5" from beginning. Fasten off. Turn up ribbing to form cuff.


Ok so that is the standard pattern which is very easy to do, right?

But think: Do you HAVE to do it all in one color? What about in a varigated yarn for the cap and a matching solid for the ribbing? How about in horizontal stripes, changing colors every three or four rows? Or a solid color for the cap and stripes for the ribbing, alternating colors round by round?

How about adding something you've crocheted as an applique either at the crown to conceal the gathering or along the side? Or maybe even making this in Team Colors and adding an authentic Team Emblem applique?

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 15th, 2005 at 11:51 AM
TRADITIONAL "WATCH CAP" (Version II)

This is an extraordinarily simple pattern as it requires no shaping for the crown of the head. It also makes up quickly using the heavier, fluffy 'homespun' yarns so readily available, but it can also be done with worsted weight and a smaller hook...just adjust for size.

This hat is another one that can be made all in one color or in stripes or any other way you can think of. Christmas of 2004 I made a batch of these for an entire family in coordinating colors so that they could all easily find one another on the sledding hills. The possibilities are up to your imagination!


MATERIALS:

Fluffy style yarn, 1 skein
Aluminum Hook, Size K
Blunt needle with large eye

INSTRUCTIONS:

GAUGE: 11 stitches = 4" in dc TAKE A MOMENT AND CHECK YOUR GAUGE!


Ch 58
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chs count as dc), then dc in every ch across. You should finish this row with 55 dc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in 2nd ch from hook (ch 3 counts as dc), then dc in every ch across. You should finish this row with 55 dc. Ch 1, turn.

TAKE A MOMENT AND COUNT YOUR STITCHES! If you have 55 dc, then continue....

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 9". Fasten off. Thread a length of yarn into blunt needle and sew sides together into a tidy seam. Clip yarn ends and weave in.

Now, here is the cool closure for this cap:

Fold the tube in half, putting the sewn seam in the middle of the back. Using your threaded needle, stitch two or three stitches close together right in the middle of the cap at the top edge, stitching the front to the back of the cap.

Without cutting the yarn, turn the hat so that one side is facing. Bring the centers of the sides together so that they meet in the middle where you stitched the front and back together. Now take a few more stitches in that same spot, joining the sides right in the center also.

Clip yarn. Weave in ends. Trim.

You will notice that with this closure there are four small openings in the top of the cap. When you flip the cap inside out, those openings get folded into the way the cap lays on the head. It does not leave bare spots up there.

Once you've reversed the cap so Right Side is facing, fold up the brim to the level of your choice.


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 15th, 2005 at 12:42 PM
TWO DECORATIVE MOTIFS FOR YOU TO TRY:


THE STAR:

Ch 3, slip stitch to form a ring
Round 1: ch 1, 5 sc in ring, slip stitch to beg ch
Round 2: ch 1, work 3 sc in each sc, slip stitch to beg chain. You should finish this round with 15 sc.
Round 3: *sc in fist sc, ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch, skip 2 sc, repeat from * around, end with slip stitch to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.


THE ROSETTE

This traditional flower motif has a million or so variations, I'm sure. This is the most basic one for you to try.

Gauge is not important in this pattern, just realize the size of the motif will be determined by the weight of the yarn and the hook you use. So a "Fun Fur" with a K hook will give you a MUCH bigger Rosette than a Sportweight yarn with an E hook will.

Rosette motifs have a multiplicity of uses. They can be attached to the brim of a hat. They can be worn as a sweater pin. You can glue them to a barette and wear in the hair. Made of satiny cords they can be used to decorate curtain tie backs. Worked in Crochet Cotton rather than yarn, using a shorter starting chain, they are delicate enough to add to a picture frame or the yoke of a nightgown.

This Rosette uses two common stitches:

THE V-STITCH which is (dc, ch 1, dc) IN ONE CHAIN OR SPACE OR LOOP.

THE SHELL STITCH (variation) which is 6 dc in one space.


INSTRUCTIONS ARE IN THREE SIZES:

ch 17, (35), [53]

Row 1: dc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) IN NEXT CHAIN. {V-Stitch made!] Repeat from * across to end of chain. At the end you will have 6, (16) or [25] V-Stitches. Turn.
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in first ch-1 space, *sc in next ch-1 space, 6 dc in next ch-1 space (Shell Stitch made!). Repeat from * around, ending 6 dc in last ch-1 space. At the end you will have 6, (16) or [25] shells.


OPTIONAL ADDITION OF A SECOND COLOR:

If you would like to trim out your Rosette in a second color, then do this...

In the final dc of Round 2, drop your main color and pick up your second color so that the bottom half of the dc is in the main color and the top half is in the second. Next, ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. Fasten off, weave in ends.


FINISHING THE ROSETTE:

Leave a long tail for sewing, cut yarn. Thread a blunt nose needle with a large eye. Tightly begin to roll the end into a rose bud shape. Using the threaded needle, take a few stitches from underneath to secure this bud in place. Now, carefully continue to roll the piece, spreading it wider as you go, stitching from the underside. When the Rosette is complete, fasten off, cut remaining yarn and weave in ends.


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 18th, 2005 at 03:30 AM
Here are a few useful photos I thought you might appreciate. More will be forthcoming soon.


This is the correct position for holding the yarn in the left hand...

[Linked Image]


This is how to begin your slip knot...

[Linked Image]


And here is the final stage of the slip knot...

[Linked Image]


Step One for making a chain...


[Linked Image]


Step Two for the chain....


[Linked Image]


Finished Chain...

[Linked Image]


I hope these are helpful!

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 18th, 2005 at 03:38 AM
Because Thread Crochet is my personal favorite, I thought I would also show you a few things about it.


Regular yarns look like this...

[Linked Image]


The Crochet Cotton for Threadwork looks like this and comes in a variety of thicknesses and colors...

[Linked Image]


Thread Crochet is often used for Holiday Decorations such as these...

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Or sweet baby items like this...

[Linked Image]


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 18th, 2005 at 03:48 AM
You often see many elaborate and delicate bookmarks made of Thread Crochet...


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


And just plain lovely items such as this Pineapple and Fans tablecloth...

[Linked Image]


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 18th, 2005 at 04:10 AM
Another Crochet Technique everyone should know about is Filet.

Worked in squares using varying patterns of open and closed blocks referred to as "mesh", filet can be done in either yarn or thread, although you most often see it in thread.

Many Cross Stitch patterns that do not rely on color changes for their design can be worked in Filet Crochet and vice versa.


Here is a sample:

[Linked Image]


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 18th, 2005 at 05:58 AM
Although I've been making Thread Crochet Angels for more than 30 years, I have very few photos to show as the majority of them were made as gifts.

However, here are a few photos for now and I'll be able to show photos of the ones I am making for this Christmas when I get them finished.

You should know that free-standing Angels or shaped items made with Thread Crochet (such as baskets) always need to be stiffened.

Traditionally, the stiffener was made out of boiled water and sugar. Now many commercial stiffeners are widely available either for dipping or spray application. It is also possible to use simple white glue diluted with water.

The drying process can be tedious, depending on how it must be accomplished.

For flat items such as snowflakes and angel wings, you must cover a piece of corrugated cardboard with wax paper. Soak the items in the stiffener of your choice, drain them a bit but NEVER wring them out. Then, working with stainless steel straight pins, you carefully pin the item to the cardboard, extending it to it's proper shape. A snowflake with elaborate detail and picots can take 50 to 100 pins.

When the item is finally dry, usually by the next morning, you simply remove the pins and pull it away from the wax paper. It will then keep its shape for years barring any unfortunate accident.

Although Thread Crochet is done with Cotton, it IS washable. When the time comes to launder the item, simply wash it as you would any fine garment and allow it to air dry -- never place it in a dryer. You can then put it aside until you are ready to stiffen it again, or procede with the stiffening.

Items such as Angels, Bells and Baskets can be more difficult because you need to find things to use as a mold to fill the areas that need extended. Sometimes a styrofoam cone will do for under an Angels skirt, or a plastic bowl will fit adequately into a basket. Other times you simply must cram the item with balled up plastic wrap or bubble wrap.

Either way, it is a good idea to check regularly on the item during the drying process just to make sure nothing is shifting out of place. It is really frustrating to wake up to an Angel whose skirt has dried so crookedly she won't stand! My best advice is to do your stiffening projects early in the morning so you have plenty of time to check on them, although I must admit to many late night dip 'n drips and pins in the mad dash to Christmas. But it is better to avoid that whenever possible!


[Linked Image]

This is the basic Angel I made for our priest last year although for his I put a much more elaborate halo on her.


[Linked Image]

These are the Angels I made for a friend with young children. Although these are made of fine yarn and are not Thread Crochet, I thought you'd enjoy seeing them. These Angels are made of Granny Squares and are shaped with wires internally. I thought that was a good option in case the little boy in the house overenthusiastically squeezed the Angel. Mom could reshape her without washing and stiffening!

[Linked Image]

Flying Angels are always a fun pose.


[Linked Image]


I always thought this Angel, whose traditional name is Lacy Angel, was particularly handsome because of her hankerchief hem.


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 18th, 2005 at 11:47 AM
Oh, and just so there is no misunderstanding, the above photos are NOT of my own work. They are stock photos of projects I have completed but are not specifically of my items. As I mentioned before, most of my things have been given as gifts already.

However, I'm hoping that my friend with the digital camera will stop by in the next week and take pictures of the items I have on hand to show you.

For Thread Crochet...
I have an exquisite Vintage yoke that is a reproduction of a 1917 pattern. There is a very lovely Vintage Filet crochet piece for Easter from a 1926 pattern. There is a really neat (but rather large) doily that takes up nearly my entire dining room table -- the earliest date I could find on that was 1946. Tonight I just completed work on a traditional Julianne Cap and tomorrow I plan to add the beadwork to it. Plus numerous small items such as the bookmarks and snowflakes and angels I'm preparing as gifts for the coming Holiday Season.

For yarn projects...
I am hoping to show you a lovely muff and scarf set I made last winter; several unusual scarf and beret style hat sets; one of my "famous" hooded scarves; a black shrug with a rather different pinwheel motif and a matching muff with gold sewing thred crocheted for a decorative feature and gold beadwork...

So hang on, and I hope to get these photos out for you as soon as possible!

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 21st, 2005 at 03:00 AM
Hi everyone ~ wavey

Recently, a forum member asked me if I sell my work or accept payment for it? It was a kind question, generously meant. I think my answer bears repeating here, so now you all can know.

No, I never sell my work. Ever.

Everything I make is either for myself, my home, or is given as gifts.

However, I DO certainly accept donations of MATIERALS only... yarns, threads, hooks in unusual sizes, knitting needles, bags of fiberfill to stuff toys or whathaveyou. This allows me to continue giving to the next people on my lists.

In this manner, I have been able to make countless sweaters for the Guideposts Sweaters For Children Project, Caps for Cancer patients, afghans, hats and mitten sets for ghetto outreach programs, toys for needy children, and mountains of bazarre items for non-profit organizations to sell.

And I never care WHAT KIND of yarn, or crochet thread, or what color or how much of it is involved. I can use all of it for one project or another, and believe me, the supplies do get eaten up remarkably fast! An overflowing yarn basket one week is out the door in short order worked into stuff making folks happy or to keep them warm in tough conditions.

Plus, I can't even think about selling the difficult thread crochet projects I give away. For instance, if I spend 50 hours creating something truly lovely, there is no way I could ever tag it with a fair price for my time, right?

If my time is worth even minimum wage, well multiply that by 50 then add in the cost of the supplies, and few people could either afford or even WANT to pay that much for a pretty decoration!

Not to mention, all the intense feelings and thoughts that go into every single stitch. The sometimes heartbreaking effort it takes to complete a complex pattern that sometimes needs torn out and restitched I invest for love of the recipient of the gift. I could not invest that much care into something for money. No amount of money offered to me would compel me to sit up at 3 am, determined on getting that thing right! But for my friends, my family, a little kid cold in some far away place, you betcha, I'll sit up working until my hands are aching. THEY are worth it!


thumbup


Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - August 26th, 2005 at 09:14 AM
A WORD ABOUT COLLECTING PATTERNS


Almost every yarn department offers free leaflets of patterns as an incentive to purchase the specified yarns. Even if you think you may not (or even probably not) do that particular project, it is a good idea to collect the leaflets anyway.

A careful reading of the instructions may very well introduce you to a new stitch or a new technique you haven't worked with before. Also, working with such patterns can give you a better understanding of how things are constructed so you can venture on your own.

Almost all the labels around skeins of yarn have patterns printed on the inside, so be careful how you remove the label to not damage the printing. These too can be a very useful resource.

And of course, there are literally millions of free patterns available on-line. The only thing required is PATIENCE as you carefully sort through the abundance of choices.

Lyon Brand Yarn, as well as Coat's & Clark, both yarn companies, have free web sites. Lyon Brand sends out a regular email newsletter free of charge.

Not every pattern is worth your effort; not all "designers" are created equal. Sometimes, the free patterns will be the tacky items you wouldn't want to waste your time on, and the really good stuff will be available only by sale.

That being said, I would like to mention two modern designers who are rather worthy of your notice.

The great Sandi Marshall, designer and preservationist, has hundreds of free patterns as well as stitch instructions available on-line. I have learned SO MUCH from this talented woman's work... advancing not only my skills as a crocheter but also broadening my pattern comfort zone.

Another really gifted designer is Prisilla Hewitt and many of her patterns are also available free on-line.

I particularly enjoy encountering Prisilla's work because she seems to offer a nice selection to please just about anyone... yarn projects, thread projects, even covered rope projects for an assortment of skill levels.

Many times I have started one of Prisilla's patterns and after a couple of rows or rounds I have thought "Is this is misprint or a typo? How is THIS going to work? It doesn't look right!"

Yet I turn the corner or begin the next round and suddenly it ALL becomes apparant and I'm thinking "Oh, clever woman, Prisilla, very clever woman indeed!" So often her patterns are quite simple but give truly remarkable results.

Another option to keep in mind is joining the Crochet Guild of America for a nominal fee. Here you will find many resources, including local clubs with meetings you can attend or larger events open to the public.

Once you begin collecting patterns in earnest, you will be surprised at how rapidly they accumulate. And it is always fun to share collections with your friends, each person looking over samples of work completed or through the files. Many new ideas can be gained in this way.


Merme
Posted By: plants 'n pots Re: Crochet 101 - August 26th, 2005 at 11:01 PM
Hi all - if you look down at the freebie forum, I posted a link for a free ball of disco yarn. It looks like a fussy type of yarn for beginners, but hey - it's free and there might be something you'd like to make with it?
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 05:51 AM
Hi everyone ~

Finally, I have a few more photos to show you. Hopefully, I'll be able to post more soon...

This is a Vintage Yoke pattern from 1917 I worked in Size 20 thread with a Size 10 steel hook. Although it was meant to be the top for a nightgown or slip, I choose to wear it as a collar.

[Linked Image]


This is a traditional Julianne Cap with both crocheted beadwork around the lower edge as well as hand sewn beads throughout the body.


Side View
[Linked Image]

Back View
[Linked Image]

This easy Julianne Cap was worked with TWO strands of Size 10 thread held together and an Size E aluminum hook.

And yes, that is my son doing the modelling for you all!

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 05:56 AM
This is a Vintage Filet Crochet pattern from 1926. Titled "Three Crosses On A Hillside", I made it for our priest as his Easter Gift, 2005. It is worked with Size 10 thread using a Size 7 Steel hook. This rendition worked out to be 14 inches wide by 17 inches tall.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 06:09 AM
This is one of my Holiday Miniatures, a Victorian Christmas Stocking. It was made with Size 10 thread using a Size 6 steel hook and the finished size is 1.5 inches tall. This is NOT a flat piece, but an actual stocking. For the glittery trim, I added a strand of ordinary metallic sewing thread to the Size 10 thread and worked them together.

[Linked Image]


These are three of my miniature Rose Pins. They are each worked with Size 10 thread using a Size 7 Steel hook. Each rose measures 1.5 inches across. The central pearl is added later, just before the Rosette Motif is sewn into its final shape. The leaves are worked separately and stitched to the back before the jewlery pin back is added for wearing.

[Linked Image]


Merme
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 06:51 AM
Merme,

Well after a much too long absence it is so good to see you. That work of your is ABSOLUTELY, I mean totally beautiful! Thanks for sharing! Hope to see you posting more. I sure do miss ya!
Posted By: plants 'n pots Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 07:47 AM
WOW Merme - you really do beautiful work! kissies
Posted By: MissJamie Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 12:48 PM
hi there merme! those look excellent! since we're seeing pictures...does that mean that you have your own camera now?
Posted By: Anonymous Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 05:20 PM
What wonderful work you do Merme....I crochet, but I don't follow patterns...I just sort of do my own thing.....I don't think I could ever do anything that fancy....

Thanks for sharing your pictures....they're great.
Posted By: afgreyparrot Re: Crochet 101 - September 13th, 2005 at 10:51 PM
Quote
Each rose measures 1.5 inches across.
ters

Cindy
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - September 14th, 2005 at 12:10 AM
Those are the largest of the roses I make, afgrey, because they are made with Size 10 thread which is fairly hefty. Made with Size 20, 30, 40 or 50, and using much finer hooks, they turn out very delicate indeed. In such small sizes they are perfect for slips, nightgowns, hankies, or picture frames, etc., wherever they won't get terribly hard use.

They are actually the same pattern sample I sent to you and Triss worked in yarn so you could more readily see the individual stitches as well as how they are put together. You often will see the rosette pattern made in yarns for afghans, vests, hat brims or purses. Made with silk cords they can be used to adorn drapery tie backs.

You see? It all just depends on the fiber used.

Merme
Posted By: Nana's11 Re: Crochet 101 - September 14th, 2005 at 12:56 AM
Merme-
those are all beautiful.... love the roses too- and I agree you could sell those for much more at the church fair- bet you would get it too- fairs here chage much more- church and regular craft fairs- anything handmade .... I have seen fleece blankets here that are nothing more than a length of fleece with fringe cut at the edges all around for over $25... how much handwork is in that-?
Love the hat too-- you have so much talent.
Nana
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - September 23rd, 2005 at 07:26 PM
GRANDMOTHER'S TIP

This is a tip from generations past for those of you who make large projects such as afghans or sweaters meant to endure over time.

Before you begin the project, unroll and cut off one very long strand of your yarn and put a simple knot in each end. Set aside.

Then when your project is nearing completion and you are ready to begin your edging, border, or sew your side seams, get that strand ready.

Simply place it flat along one edge and "bury" it as you sew the seam or work the border, leaving only the knots exposed at each end where they will hardly be noticable.

Then, in after years, if the item ever needs repaired, the person doing the repair will have a strand of the original fiber that is of the same color, age, and number of washings as the whole piece.

One knot can be snipped off, the free end pulled out just to reveal enough of the strand for the repair. The remaining end can be knotted again and tucked back in for still future use.

And, when you give the item away, be sure to point out "Grandmother's Secret".

This small and easy tip spares the future owner much heartache trying to find matching yarn to effect a repair that won't show.

Merme
Posted By: plants 'n pots Re: Crochet 101 - September 23rd, 2005 at 08:18 PM
What a fantastic idea, Merme!
Thanks for sharing that!
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - October 16th, 2005 at 04:03 AM
Hi everyone ~

I thought you all might enjoy the following excerpts from the "Ladies Complete Guide to Crochet and Fancy Knitting", published in 1854... crochet had been introduced to American women in the 1830's from Ireland and it was gaining in popularity.


"In this country, crochet is considered not merely as an elegant way to while away time, but as one of those gentle means by which women are kept feminine and ladylike in this fast age. Masculine women of hard or coarse-grained natures are seldom given to these pleasant household employments."

"There is a careless fashion among gentlemen of speaking lightly regarding those graceful exhibitions of female industry which pass under the head of fancy work. Yet, to our mind, there is no amusement more innocent and graceful. Let gentlemen deride these pretty occupations if they please; we know how much of a soothing influence lies in the dreamy habit of counting stitches and how many bright faculties are pleasantly exercised in arranging and matching colors."

"On no occasion does a lady seem more lovely than when half occupied with some feminine art which keeps her fingers employed and gives an excuse for downcast eyes and gentle preoccupation. There is an air of tranquility and a proof of innocent contentment in these domestic accomplishments that have a beautiful significance in the family circle."

"It is only in well regulated households that leisure moments are thus gathered up. It is only minds, composed and serene in their joy or submissive in sorrow, that can constrain themselves to the gentle monotony of work like this."

"With a crochet [hook] in the hand, we join more pleasantly in conversation; the little implement fills up all embarassing pauses. It's use gives feminine and domestic air which men may smile at but cannot condemn. Under all circumstances it is better than counting beads like the modern Greeks, or flirting with fans like the Spanish belles -- or flirting without fans as sometimes happens to ladies of all nations."

"What excuse should we have for casting down eyes when other people's eyes become troublesome? Every lady knows how many heart tremors can be carried off in a vigorous twist of the crochet [hook]. How many pleasant words may be innocently received in a sensitive heart when it's defensive faculties are busy counting stitches?"

"In short, we persist in the belief that a feminine character can not be quite perfect without a knowledge of all types of needlework, and a downright hearty love of it, too. For our part we have buried many a heartache in the growing leaves of a silken rose and blunted the sharp edge of pangs that would not be wrestled with by the sweet, calm monotony of a shining bit of steel."

Oh, how I enjoyed reading that slice of life from our sisters of 150 years ago...

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:05 AM
Here are some photos of recent work photographed by Melcon...

This first piece is "Star of Peace, Hope For The World"

[Linked Image]


Although it is hard to see in the photo, there are actualy six bands making the shape of the globe with the dangling star in the center. The entire piece is 3 inches wide.
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:08 AM
Here are some photos of the Cornucopia, which measures 3 inches in length from point of cone to filigree edge and perhaps 2 inches wide at the fullest part of the trumpet.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

As I mentioned before, the tiny gift packages were Lego blocks I crocheted around with sparkly Knit-Cro-Sheen which also has a slightly elastic quality to the thread.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:11 AM
Here are two photos of the six-sided snowflake "Leaves of Snow"...

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]

I think that turned out to be between 2.5 and 3 inches tall.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:16 AM
This piece was difficult to photograph because we did not have a good surface to spread it out on for Melcon. Maxi just held it up against the back of the chair for contrast.

[Linked Image]

It is a doily pattern called "Silver Bells" and measures 10 inches across. There are 23 jingle bells of 6mm and 7 jingle bells of 9 mm around the outer edge.

This was also worked in silver Knit-Cro-Sheen. My sister might possibly suspend this inside a metal ring for hanging rather than using it as a flat piece.

Merme
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:19 AM
The last photo in this series is of the single ice skate worked over a 1 inch paperclip.

She took the photo before I had the second skate completed, but when they are finished I crochet a length of chain between the two attached at the back cuff of each boot so they can be hung on the tip of a tree branch...

[Linked Image]

Merme

Oh and PS next week I hope to have more photos of larger items such as woolies to show you...
Posted By: Triss Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:23 AM
Wonderful stuff! I do not think I could ever do stuff so small. That cornucorpia is so sweet!
Posted By: jonni13 Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 09:29 AM
Nice handiwork, Merme. ~Tina
Posted By: afgreyparrot Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 10:58 AM
Oh, Merme!!!!! shk

How in the world do you do that???
Such tiny little things?

Makes my hands and fingers hurt just thinking about it.
Posted By: plants 'n pots Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 11:19 AM
So talented, Merme.
You must have terrific concentration and steadiness for those gorgeous projects!
Posted By: comfrey Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 11:25 AM
Very beautiful Merme, I love them all!!! Do you give them as gifts or just make them for yourself? I collect the Crochet type pot holders, I don't use them nor do I have them displayed, they are in my cedar chest along with the all the tablecloths I also collect, I do use some of the table cloths.
Posted By: Merme Re: Crochet 101 - December 5th, 2005 at 07:29 PM
I thought I should post the photos of the silver rose pin here, too...

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Although some of the smaller details do not photograph that well, this pin is based on the traditional three tier rosette. Worked in Silver Knit-Cro-Sheen with a size 7 steel hook, the final size is about 1 inch wide.

A red glass bead is added to the center by stringing it onto the tail left for sewing the rosette into shape and then running the tail down through the rosette to secure it into place, picking up the edges of all the layers in small stitches using a tapestry needle.

I then attached additional thread, strung tiny rocaille beads and 6 mm jingle bells to make the dangling loops.

The last step was to add the jewelry pin back.

The specific directions for making the basic rosette motif are on an earlier page in this thread. Because I have made hundreds of these rosettes in a wide variety of fibers and sizes and colors, I can assure you it is a motif that is worthwhile to learn... with nearly endless possibilities for final product.

Worked with satin cord these become large and elegant enough for drapery tie backs. A fuzzy yarn makes a cute one for the brim of a woolie cap. Size 10 crochet cotton renders a motif about an inch wide, suitable for pins or ponytail holders when sewn onto elastics. Size 20 or 50 crochet cotton (VERY fine thread indeed!) renders a motif dainty enough to decorate a lacy nightgown or slip...

Merme
Posted By: comfrey Re: Crochet 101 - December 6th, 2005 at 04:10 AM
Oh the rose pin is so beautiful!!!!
Posted By: Anonymous Re: Crochet 101 - December 6th, 2005 at 09:36 AM
I second that, I LOVE the rose pin....it's beautiful...although everything is equally wonderful....I really like those little skates too....I crochet, but nothing like that....just plain old blankets...nothing fancy.

Merme they are wonderful! kissies
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