HERBS - AN OVERVIEW An herb is technically defined as a "
plant or part of a
plant valued for its medicinal, savory,
aromatic or decorative qualities." Taken literally, this definition can encompass nearly all
plants, therefore, it has become common practice to recognize a much smaller group of
plants as herbs.
The history of herbs is as old as time itself, and this history is filled with a rich tradition
of lore, superstition, and legend.
The majority of
plants classified as herbs contain some substance, in some part of the
plant, (root, leaf,
flower, bark, or fruit) that has been used, at some time, as a medicine. Nearly 1/4 of medicines currently in use are derived from
plants or are near duplicates of these naturally occuring substances. Although herbs have been used medicinally throughout the ages, the use of herbs by the untrained for medical purposes can be very harmful or even fatal. Care must be taken not to recommend or use any herb in any way that is not known to be completely safe.
Herb gardening has experienced a renewed interest in recent years, and the interest continues to grow at a rapid pace. Most herbs are fairly easy to grow, and can be grown in a relatively small area. They are usually started from
seed, or purchased as small
plants, and set into the herb bed or garden after the last
spring frost. Some are reported to repel insects or otherwise aid
plant growth and are used in companion plantings. Many herb
plants are annuals and must be restarted every year or overwintered indoors, but some are perennials and will survive several years.
Many common herbs originated in the Mediterrean region. The well-drained soil, bright sunlight,
and moderate temperatures of the region are quite conducive to these
plants' growth. Some herbs
native to the Mediterranean are anise, bay, laurel,dill, lavender, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, and thyme.
Now, on to the real "dirt"...
Preparing the site Choose a site that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Morning and early
afternoon sunlight is best. Choosing a site located close to the back or kitchen door will
provide easy access to the freshest herbs for cooking.
Avoid sites where the soil may stay too wet or too dry, this can be an indication of too much
clay or sand in the soil for herbs to do well. Soil may be modified with organic matter, or
raised beds may be constructed to correct water drainage issues.
"Herb Dirt Mix" for raised beds yield: 100 square feet
18 cubic feet Pine Bark Mulch
three 5 gal buckets or three 50lb bags sand
20 lb composted cow manure
5 lb pelletized lime
Mix all ingredients well.
(ingredients may be reduced porportionately for smaller beds)
Prepare site by removing debris from soil. A soil test at this time is very helpful to
determine the makeup of the soil and fertilizer requirements. Organic matter worked into the
soil or applied around
plants will help to retain moisture, limit
weeds, and slowly improve the
soil. Prepare the site well, as perennial herbs may remain in one place for several years.
If a soil test shows the need for an application of lime, it will be most effective if applied a
few months before planting. Fertilizers should be applied immediately before working the soil.
Soil should be worked to a depth of 6 inches.
Water Most herbs do well with 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. Shallow-rooted annual herbs (ie
dill) may reqire more water in very warm, dry weather; established perennial herbs may be quite
drought tolerant.
Problems Herbs are generally unhindered by insects and diseases. Good sanitation will limit insect and
disease problems, as will natural predators. Handpicking or insecticidal soaps will control the occasional outbreak of insects. Most traditional pesticides are
not labeled for culinary herb use.
Propagation Herbs may be propagated by
seed, division, or cuttings. Dill propagates easily from
seed, and
can become invasive if not kept in check. French tarragon, lavender, true peppermint, French
thyme and English thyme are herbs which can only be propagated by cuttings or layering.
Lavender and rosemary grown from
seed are often inferior to the parent
plant, and considering
the slow and sporadic germination, are best grown from cuttings.
seed may be sown indoors in a shallow flat or container with drainage holes, using a mix of 1/2
perlite, 1/2 potting medium. Some
seeds germinate with light, and should not be covered with medium; instead, lightly press
seeds into moist medium.
seeds may be covered with plastic or glass "dome" and placed 6 inches below florescent lights. Remove dome as soon as first
seedlings appear.
seeds that don't require light for germination may be planted in shallow holes or furrows, lightly covered with medium, covered with plastic or glass, and placed in warm area. (70-80*F) When
seeds have germinated, remove cover and place under lights.
Fertilize
seedlings once a week with half strength balanced fertilizer, water when surface of medium begins to dry.
When
seedlings have developed 2 sets of leaves (one set cotyledon, or
seed, leaves, and one set
true leaves) gently prick out, and transplant to small individual pots. Continue to fertilize
and water, and raise grow lights as
plants grow.
seedlings need 16 hours of light for best growth (a timer is helpful), and a drop in temperature
of about 10* at night will produce even better growth.
Many large-seeded annual herbs, such as chives, fennel, cilantro and dill may be direct seeded
into the garden from May through August or September, depending on your hardiness
zone. Prepare
seed bed of fine soil, sprinkle
seed, rake slightly, and firm soil lightly. Water lightly, and keep soil evenly moist until
seedlings appear. Thin
seedlings to proper spacing when about 2 inches tall. It is common practice to make successive sowings at 2 week intervals during the
growing season to ensure a continuous supply. To prevent unwanted volunteer
seedlings, and maintain neat appearance of bed, harvest all mature
plants before
seed sets.
Large clumps of perennial herbs may be lifted and cut into smaller clumps for replanting. This
is done in
spring before new growth starts, or in early fall before dormancy.
Many perennial herbs root easily from stem cuttings. The cuttings root faster in
spring or
early summer, but cuttings may be taken in fall with good results, although it will take them
longer to root.
Sanitation is the key to successful rooting of herb cuttings. Rooting hormone is useful in
developing roots and minimizing stem rot, but is not always necessary. Here, trial and error is
the guide. Some herbs (mint, for example) will easily root in nothing more than a glass of
water.
To root in medium, take 4 to 6 inch cuttings of firm, healthy, new growth. Strip all leaves
from lower half of cutting. Dip stem in rooting hormone. (optional) Place cuttings in premade
hole in pot of perlite, place pot on tray of water. Be sure water level is lower than the end
of the cutting. Place in bright light (not direct sunlight). In two weeks, begin "testing" for roots by GENTLY pulling on cutting. When resistance is felt, roots have begun forming. Gently remove
plants from perlite, and pot up to individual pots of
growing mix.
Some herbs, whether by self sowing or underground runners, can become quite invasive. Dill,
fennel, and chives are notorious self seeders; mint, yarrow, and tansy spread quickly by
runners. To help control this problem, harvest self seeders before they set
seed, and contain
"spreaders" in lengths of vertically buried PVC pipe, chimney tiles, or other bottomless pots.
Another solution is to grow herbs in containers on a sunny deck or patio.
Harvesting When not pruned regularly, herbs can become quite floppy and unruly. Regular pruning actually
produces a healthier
plant, as well as one that is compact and bushy.Annual herbs can be harvested for their leaves any time up to flowering. Pinching the stem back to a leaf node promotes lateral branching. Pull these
plants by the roots before
seed sets. Herbs that are grown for their
seed (dill, fennel, coriander) must be left and allowed to set
seed. Perennial herbs can be clipped from late
spring until late summer or flowering, whichever comes first. Do not prune later in the season, as this may encourage tender new growth that is vunerable to frost. The quality, flavor, and fragrance of herbs tend to decline after flowering.
Preserving Herbs can be used fresh, or can be preserved to retain quality for later use. The easiest way
to preserve herbs is by freezing. Tie herbs in small bundles and dip in boiling water for a few
seconds (many believe this "blanching" is not necessary), rinse quickly in cold water, pat dry,
and chop coarsely. Divide herbs into desired portions, seal in freezer containers or freezer
bags, and place in freezer. Although these herbs will not look or feel like fresh when thawed,
and are unsuitable for garnish, they will taste and smell as fresh as the day they were picked.
Herbs prepared this way may also be frozen in measured portions in a block or cube of ice, and
added to soups, stews, and other dishes with a liquid base.
Herbs may also be pickled in vinegar to make a base for dressings or marinades that utilize
vinegar. Blanche large sprigs of desired herb in boiling water for a few seconds to sterilize,
and steep in white wine vinegar for several weeks. These herb vinegars will keep indefinitely when stored at room temperature out of direct sunlight.
The object of drying herbs is to retain as much color, aroma and flavor as possible. Traditionally, entire
plants or large stems are tied and hung, upside down, in a fairly dark,
slightly cool room, with good air circulation. Do not dry in direct sunlight, as this will fade
colors. Allow plenty of air space between bunches to discourage the growth of mold. Many herbs dry well, although there are a few that will lose their fragrance or flavor.
I personally do not recommend microwave drying of herbs, as the drying time must be carefully
controlled, and there is a great tendency to overdry and burn the herbs.
Oven drying, on the other hand, is a good method if you are in a hurry. Place herbs in a single
layer on a rack, and cover with cheesecloth. Set oven at lowest temperature, leave door open
slightly, and stir herbs frequently until crisp. This only takes a few minutes.
A food dehydrator may also be used, follow user instructions.
Dried herbs should be left in large pieces, and crumbled just before use to preserve flavor.
The flavor of dried herbs is more concentrated than fresh, so only use 1/2 to 1/3 the amount of
dried herbs, compared to what you would use fresh. Not only do fresh herbs have wonderful
flavor, they also make nice garnishes.
Uses Did you know that parsley was originally placed on a plate not for decoration, but to be chewed
as a "breath freshener" after spicy meals?
Dried
flowers and leaves are also useful craft items. Their color, fragrance, and texture are a
great addition to wreaths, arrangements, and potpourris.
Herbs may be steeped in hot water, and added to the bath water for an invigorating, soothing, or
relaxing bath.
A search at your local library, bookstore, or on the internet will yield many other ideas for
the use of herbs.
For more herbal info, visit the following sites:
web page web page web page web page I hope this article has been interesting as well as informative. If you have specific questions, you may contact me through this board, or email me at:
Nikkal_1@yahoo.com
Nikkal
I'd recommend Lavandula angustifolia, aka English, or True, Lavender. Not only does it have the sweetest fragrance, but this type has the most varied uses.
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