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A Gardeners Forum Forums Members History Forum Life 2005 What's the best thing I can do

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What's the best thing I can do #109637 August 4th, 2004 at 01:23 PM
Joined: Jun 2004 West Virginia Meg OP Member
OP Meg Member Joined: Jun 2004 West Virginia	to fix my flower bed? Ok, so we had accidental pumpkins in it for awhile.. and ended up killing the plant. See the end result here. Well, I think it started with those nasty cucumber beetles getting in there too good before I knew it. Then there were a few other pests as well. Then, the powdery mildew I found out, well after much of the plant started dying. (And did it ever stink like mildew does!) I know there are likely "leftovers" in my ground.. ie- bad buggy eggs, etc. I do want to plant here again, only, flowers would be nice. Some nice perennials, some annuals.. I want color! BUT, I'm sure my flowerbed isn't in the best of shape now thanks to all the buggies that did in my pumpkins. What can I do to fix my little area up, so it's worthy of planting again? I was thinking nematodes would help, but not really sure exactly where to get them and how to apply. Other than that, I'm clueless. I really would love to plant something, maybe some mums for the fall. Ideas, suggestion?? Meg

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Re: What's the best thing I can do #109638 August 10th, 2004 at 02:03 AM
Joined: Mar 2004 Missouri duckie Member
duckie Member Joined: Mar 2004 Missouri	Hi Meg I think mums are a great idea.They are so pretty and they come back every year. Here is a link for help with the buggies.I've used this companies products,they really work. http://www.gardensalive.com/prog_display.asp?PROG_NBR=5 Happy gardening, Shari

Re: What's the best thing I can do #109639 August 12th, 2004 at 11:27 AM
Joined: Jun 2004 West Virginia Meg OP Member
OP Meg Member Joined: Jun 2004 West Virginia	Thanks duckie.. I've got that sight bookmarked. I figure on getting some nematodes, but other than that, I wasn't sure what I could do to "fix" my soil, I'm sure it's messed up with something that helped kill my pumpkins.. between all the cucumber beetles and weevils, and other bugs, then the mildew that really did em in. Then there were wormy critters IN my pumpkins. I guess I'm just worried that anything I plant there will just automatically die, since the pumpkins were there and ended so badly. Meg

Re: What's the best thing I can do #109640 August 14th, 2004 at 04:25 AM
Joined: Apr 2003 N.Y. weezie13 Compost Queen!
weezie13 Compost Queen! Joined: Apr 2003 N.Y.	Meg, Don't get too discouraged!!! Gardening takes years of gardening to get a small handle on "Mother Nature". When you go to re~do your flower bed, think of the DIRT/SOIL first, that is your number one priority for gardening, if you have "bugs or problems, ie: powdery mildew, etc." If your soil/dirt is crappy, it helps thrive your problems, but if you have good soil/dirt and planting area, you're rewarded with beautiful healthy plants/flowers.... First, get yourself some compost, that will help amend your soil, break it up, bring the healthy bugs your way, keep moisture in the soil and natural nutrition for the roots.... Also, work in some organic stuff, Alfafa Meal is a very good one, or Blood or Bone Meal.. I also like Epsom Salts because that will help your plant absorb it's food better. And some aged manures... And remember when you plant some plants, keep the mulch away from the base of the plants, I'll lay a large bet that was part of your "pumpkin demise" That keeps moisture too close to the stem, which invites those pests!!! Weezie

Re: What's the best thing I can do #109641 August 14th, 2004 at 05:27 PM
Joined: Jun 2004 West Virginia Meg OP Member
OP Meg Member Joined: Jun 2004 West Virginia	AHA!! THE MULCH DID IT!! <img border="0" alt="[perplexed]" title="" src="graemlins/confused.gif" /> We spread a lot of mulch over the top of the flower beds to help control weeds.. ya know, where we planted the "pansies". Figures, one of the things I thought was going to be good, turned out to be bad. sigh I don't know how to even begin with compost. Umm.. clueless really. There should be lots of manure around. I live next to a horse track. But, I wouldn't know how to um.. collect any. Where do I find those other items -bone, alfalfa, blood meal? How do they get applied? Should I not even bother to plant fall flowers, it'll still be a mess? sigh Meg

Re: What's the best thing I can do #109642 August 15th, 2004 at 06:17 PM
Joined: Jul 2004 St. Petersburg Florida P Pineapple_Raye Member
Pineapple_Raye Member P Joined: Jul 2004 St. Petersburg Florida	Meg, Composting is not hard once you understand a basic rule. That is to balance the carbon items with the nitrogen items. First lets go over a few basis. Find a Location for the Pile Big rule #1 Your pile can be built anywhere except up against a structure such as a house or fence. As far as where to find the other items check with feed stores then your garden shops. You will find some items in feed stores that are cheaper than garden stores. Plus some items are only found in feed stores. Rule #2 If you can place your compost pile upon a heavy plastic sheeting. This will prevent the nutrients from leach out into the ground. If you place it on ground, earthworms will come to help decompost your pile. I like the sheeting as I have a worm farm. Add Nitrogen and Carbon Materials in Alternating Layers while adding moisture. Make sure that your layers are no more than 4-6 inches thick. Once you turn the pile the first time, the carbons and nitrogens will be mixed. The reason you layer at first is to judge how much carbon ver nitrogen you are using. Make the top layer carbon. (More on the layering ratios later in this posting.) Below is a chart I set up to help you understand what is carbon and nitrogen item. Plus there carbon to nitrogen ratio. Do the math To calculate the carbon-to-nitrogen of your compost mix, use the chart above to find the approximate percentages of carbon and nitrogen in your ingredients. Even if you're unlikely to weigh every ingredient you add to your heap, this formula will give you an idea of how to adjust the proportions of materials in your pile to get finished compost more quickly. 1. Calculate your pile's Total Carbon Value by multiplying the percent carbon of each ingredient by the number of parts (by weight) of that ingredient and then adding up the carbon totals for all the ingredients 2. Do the same for the nitrogen. 3. Divide the carbon by the nitrogen to get the C:N ratio. If it's between 25 and 35, your pile should compost beautifully. If the ratio is higher or lower than that, adjust the proportions of ingredients to bring it into the range of 25 to 35 parts carbon for each one part nitrogen. Here's an example of how the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio works when you apply the formula to real-life amounts of real-life compost ingredients: Starting with 50 pounds of nonlegume hay, 10 pounds of kitchen scraps, and 2 pounds of coffee grounds: 50 lbs hay x 40% C = 20 lbs. C 10 lbs kitchen scraps x 10% C = 1 lb. C 2 lbs coffee grounds x 25 % C = 0.5 lb. C 20 + 1 + 0.5 =21.5 Total Carbon Value 50 lbs hay x 1% N = 0.5 lb. N 10 lbs kitchen scraps x 1% N = 0.1 lb N 2 lbs coffee grounds x 1 % N = 0.02 lb. N 0.5 + 0.1 + 0.02 = 0.62 Total Nitrogen Value 21.5/0.62= 34.7 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Now if you are like me I hated math. So this is what I do. I go 3 parts nitrogen to 1 part carbon. i.e. A two inch layer of carbon. A six inch layer of nitrogen. As you layer pile take some cheap beer and lightly add some to each layer. Very lightly water it. Again very lightly water each layer. Wait 10 days. Then turn the pile inside out making sure the items that are on the outer edge this time are in the middle. If you see any items dry add water. If you see a lot of white/gray coloring add more carbon. I always hated to wait months for mature compost. The way I have layed this out for you it will burn hot and if you turn it every 10 days, in about 90 day you should have black gold. If you use my ratio and do not turn this pile every 10 days you will burn out the pile and it will go dead. Again this will be a very hot pile. Do not allow it to go over 155 degrees. If you want a slow pile then do the math :p This next information I know I have posted on this site before but for the life of me I cannot find it. So I will repost. Below are many formulas. The reason I have supplied you with so many is that in a given area you might not find some of the items. Or you have a need for a specific P-N-K rating. Or let�s say for example that after you did your pH test and your soil was high then you would not use wood ash which is an item used sometimes to supply the K. However, if your pH was real low then you would use it instead of , for example, greensand. At the bottom of this posting I will give you a couple of suggestion on how to feed your grass. Hopefully it is a natural grass for your area and not some import that everything wants to eat. First let's take a look at some of the P‑K‑N ratings of just some of these items. Blood Meal 12‑1‑1 Provides medium to rapid availability of nutrients, mainly nitrogen (N). Often used in combination with other organic fertilizers for a more complete blend. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator . Fish Emulsion 5‑2‑2 Medium to rapid availability of nutrients, mainly nitrogen. Good for foliar feeding. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator. Often used with seaweed or kelp for liquid fertilizer. Liquid Kelp 0.1‑0.1‑1 Medium availability of nutrients, mainly potassium. Has many micro‑nutrients. plant growth stimulant. Aids in protecting plants against stress. Improves plant health and immunity to diseases. Often used with fish emulsion. Steamed Bone Meal 1‑11‑0 Slow to medium availability. Primary nutrient is Phosphorus (P). Promotes root growth and seed development. Often used in dry organic fertilizer blends. Used when planting bulbs as a booster. Composted Cattle Manure 1‑1‑1 Slow to medium availability. Soil conditioner. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator. Cottonseed Meal 7‑2‑2 Slow to medium availability. Primary nutrient is Nitrogen (N). Often used in organic fertilizer blends. Will acidify soil. Good for use around Rhododendrons, azaleas, and other acid‑loving plants. Alfalfa Meal 3‑1‑2 Medium availability. Good rose food. Supplies micronutrients and horrmonal growth promoter or regulator. Generates heat as it breaks down. Also used in composting as starter or accelerator. Greensand 0‑2‑5 Medium availability. Primary nutrient is Potassium (K). Helps promote beneficial microbial activity. More absorbent than sand (silica), but of similar consistency. Good soil conditioner and for correcting potassium deficiencies. Next, below are many formulations I have collected and used over the years. 5‑10‑15 Fertilizer 2.0 lbs. blood meal 4.5 lbs. bone meal 15.0 lbs. greensand OR 5‑10‑15 Fertilizer 8.25 lbs. alfalfa meal 4.5 lbs. bone meal 15.0 lbs. greensand 10‑10‑10 Fertilizer 4.25 lbs. blood meal 4.5 lbs. bone meal 10 lbs. greensand OR 10‑10‑10 Fertilizer 16.75 lbs. alfalfa meal 4.5 lbs. bone meal 10.0 lbs. greensand 2-3.5-2.5 1 part bone meal 3 parts alfalfa hay 2 parts greensand [b] 2-4-2 Fertilizer 4 parts coffee grounds 1 part bone meal 1 part wood ashes 2-4-2 Fertilizer 1 part leather dust 1 part bone meal 3 parts granite dust 2-8-2 Fertilizer 3 parts greensand 2 parts seaweed 1 part dried blood 2 parts phosphate rock 2-13-2.5 Fertilizer 1 part cottonseed meal 2 parts phosphate rock 2 parts seaweed 3.5-5.5-3.5 Fertilizer 2 parts cottonseed meal 1 part colloidal phosphate 2 parts granite dust 2.5-6-5 Fertilizer 1 part dried blood 1 part phosphate rock 4 parts wood ashes 0-5-4 Fertilizer 1 part phosphate rock 3 parts greensand 2 parts wood ashes 3-6-3 Fertilizer 1 part leather dust 1 part phosphate rock 3 parts seaweed 3-7-5 Fertilizer 1 part dried blood 1 part phosphate rock 3 parts wood ashes 3-8-5 Fertilizer 1 part leather dust 1 part phosphate rock 1 part fish scrap 4 parts wood ashes 2.5-2.5-4 Fertilizer 3 parts granite dust 1 part dried blood 1 part bone meal 5 parts seaweed 4-5-4 Fertilizer 2 parts dried blood 1 part phosphate rock 4 parts wood ashes 6-8-3 Fertilizer 2 parts fish scrap 2 parts dried blood 1 part cottonseed meal 1 part wood ashes 1 part phosphate rock 1 part granite dust Fertilizer for acid‑loving plants, 5‑10‑15: 4.25 lbs. cottonseed meal 4.5 lbs. bone meal 15 lbs. greensand Rose Fertilizer, 15‑30‑30: 25.0 lbs. alfalfa meal 13.5 lbs. bone meal 30 lbs. greensand This is my personal favorite I use for my fruit and vegetable gardens: 2 parts blood meal 1 part fish meal 2 parts bonemeal 4 parts rock phosphate 6 parts greensand. 1/2 part kelp meal Meg, I could add more information, however this is a lot for anyone to take in at one time. Once have your compost ready then give me a yell and I will give you a few suggestions. If you need to get directly to me then E-mail me: minor@tampabay.rr.com . For some reason even though I have check to recieve Email Notfication turned on I never recieve an E-mail. So if you repost to this thread E-mail me and I will check it. Pineapple_Raye

Re: What's the best thing I can do #109643 August 16th, 2004 at 05:57 AM
Joined: Apr 2003 N.Y. weezie13 Compost Queen!
weezie13 Compost Queen! Joined: Apr 2003 N.Y.	********Meg, If at first you don't start a compost pile, at least get a bag or two of it!!! That's usually pretty good stuff to at least start out with... Can't be scarin' you away too fast!!! I love to compost, I have 2 plastic bins, 3 homemade wooden ones, and 1 double binned compost tumbler...and needless to say, I LOVE Raye's info on it!! I am starved for great info like that, but it's okay to start out slow...... A bag or two of compost and go over to where you said were horse track, they may be starvin' for people that want that stuff, and might be able to bring it to you!! Oh, I would love that!!! Weezie